Monday, January 18, 2010

Minestrone time

Minestrone is a kind of everyman, everything soup. I got the basic recipe from a Nigel Slater 'Observer' cookery column years ago. The dog-earedness of the page it's on is testament both to longevity and frequency with which we have it, especially during autumn and winter. The brutal cold spell of the last few weeks is finally over - for a while, but it still feels cold and damp though positively tropical at 5-7 degrees C compared to the double-figure sub-zero temperatures of the recent past. So hot minestrone is the ticket.

I think the key to making this a special soup is the addition of a parmesan rind and pancetta (or chopped, smoked bacon). Nigel says you can use water instead of stock but I like to use our own chicken stock if we have it (see blog for 22nd October 06).

Take a medium sized potato, two carrots and a large onion. Peel and finely chop them up then cook in a couple of tablespoons of oil and a large knob of butter or margarine on a low temperature in a large saucepan until they soften. Be warned, this takes much longer than most professional cooks allow for. They usually reckon on about five minutes but I think it's often nearer twenty, remembering to stir every few minutes to stop the vegetables sticking. When softened add a pack of pancetta, or chopped bacon, about 50g/2oz and let it brown a little. Pour in 1 litre of stock or water and half a litre/1 pint of passata. Passata is basically a kind of thick tomato juice - you can get it from most good supermarkets or deli's. Put the parmesan rind in now. Bring all this to the boil then simmer gently for an hour and a half. Season with a pinch of salt and pepper and leave the lid of the saucepan slightly askew to let the steam out. Remove the parmesan rind after 1 and a 1/2 hours and add a drained tin of cannelini beans.

Then you can pretty much put anything else in. Chopped savoy or white cabbage is nice, so to are green beans. I like to add a torn bay leaf at some point as this adds that indefinable depth which bay gives to soups and stews. If you want a bit of a kick add some chilli paste or sauce to taste. After a further 20 minutes ladle lots in to warm bowls and serve with warm, crusty bread and cheese and pickles if you like.

Cheap, soothing, delicious and very filling.

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